Testa del Rutor
Valgrisenche
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Best period:
March - April
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Esposizione:North/West
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Departure:Hamlet of Bonne (1810 m)
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Arrival:Testa del Rutor (3486 m)
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Difference in level:1100 m + 576 m
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Ascent:6h00
How to get there
Aosta Ovest highway exit. Follow the directions for Courmayeur to Arvier. Take the road for Valgrisenche to the hamlet of Bonne.
Testa del Rutor is a popular classic route with many variations. Here we’ll describe the safest and easiest. You’ll enjoy a beautiful view of the large Rutor glacier on the La Thuile side from the top. Valgrisenche has a permanent base in Heliski, open from the end of December to the end of May.
Description of the route
Day one:
From Bonne, continue along the road towards the end of the valley and take the farm road on the right for Arp Vieille. Follow it and turn left at the first fork. You’ll find the Ricci chalet after the Meillares and Vieille alps. Climb the steeper slopes on the right to the one on the left. Continue North to the hill which, with a small drop, leads to the Degli Angeli hut.
Day two:
Cross the slope heading for the Morion glacier. Climb the steep mandatory route, then towards the right, to the hidden canyon that leads to the Rutor hill (were the old Deffeyes hut used to be). Go slightly around the peak and climb the steep final slope.
Descent along the upwards itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.