Cascatone delle Grandes Murailles
How to get there
Just before the Lago Blu (Breuil), right in front of the waterfalls of the Grandes Murailles, find a dirt road that descends to the left towards a large quarry. Leave the car heading in the direction of the ice climb along a slope not very steep yet progressive. Depending on the snow conditions, skis or snowshoes can result useful or indispensable. The waterfall is the middle line, the longer one, unmistakable. 1 hour.
Description of the route
Beautiful line representing the flagship of the high Valtournenche area. It forms practically every year but the periods I which it can be climb it are few because of high avalanche hazard. It is a sure high-mountain environment to yet another masterpiece signed by Gian Carlo Grassi. Assess very carefully the snowpack stability upstream of the ice climb … consideration that applies to all lines of this area!
Length: 400 m
First ascent: G.C. Grassi, M. Rossi 1986
Altitude: 2450 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,59596 Lat.: 45,922828 – UTM (ED50) – X: 391213,7 Y: 5086630,39
It is usually climbed in even long pitches, always belaying to the right (going up). The first five belays are equipped with fixes, the last two are done on ice.
Descent: abseiling back down the ice climb stopping on the belays used to climb. The first two abseils from the top are to be equipped on abalakov, the following five are on 12 mm fixes and quick maillon. Use of 60metre ropes is mandatory.
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.