How to get here

Leave the car in the parking area of Glacier. At the end of the road, take the path to the Bivacco Regondi, which ascends north-easterly in an oblique wooded channel called “La Gaula”. Before reaching the vertical Sodoma and Gomorra face, leave the path and climb the steep slope, a little to the right, towards the ice climb far right of a wide rocky reef. 40 minutes.

Description of the route

It is an ice climb located at the far right of the rocky reef that includes the “Gaula” waterfalls. It is not very visible as it is embedded in a gully. When it forms – unfortunately not always – it is definitely a recommended line. Prestigious for famous names visiting Ollomont.

Level: II/4
Length: 140 m
First ascent: P. Batoux, A. Cheraz, P. Gabarrou, E. Marlier 1996
Altitude: 1850 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,31134 Lat.: 45,872042 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369025,17 Y: 5081415,84

L1: ice, often fine, but never vertical, to the upper snowy channel. Belay on the rock to the left (fix).
L2: channel of snow up to the base of the centre pillar. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L3: ice ramp followed by a considerable vertical pillar of about 8 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L4: pleasant recessed vertical length between never vertical rocks. Belay at the top to the tree (ropes).

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.